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With only one stop (in Amsterdam, the Netherlands) between Washington, DC, and Tanzania, we arrived at Kilimanjaro International Airport at 8:30 PM on July 6, 1993. I was beginning a 6-month sabbatical leave to work and teach at the Regional Dermatology Training Centre (RDTC) located at the Kilimanjaro Christian Medical Centre (KCMC) in Moshi, Tanzania. Henning Grossmann, MD, director of the RDTC, met us at the airport and drove us to Moshi, a 45-minute drive. Henning had arranged for us to stay in a house on the KCMC compound, which is within walking distance of the hospital.
Not knowing exactly what to expect, we were pleasantly surprised that first night to find that the road to Moshi was paved (many roads are not) and that the house had electricity (most of the time), refrigerator and stove, comfortable beds with mosquito netting, flush toilets, hot water, and tap water that was